Articles Index-Essential Oils
 
Geoff Lyth FESIPF of Quinessence discusses the many benefits of Rose Otto
 
Latin Name
Rose Otto
 
Botanical Family
Rosaceae
 
Synonyms
Damask Rose, Bulgarian Rose, Kazanlik Rose, Turkish Rose, Attar of Roses.
 
Other Species
There are over 10,000 varieties of rose, but after eliminating those species without fragrance only a handful remain that actually possess the highly sought after bouquet associated with the beloved rose; Rosa damascena (Damask rose), Rosa centifolia (Cabbage rose), Rosa gallica (Provins or French rose), R. rugosa (originally from China & Japan) and Rosa indica. Other than these and their related hybrids, most other varieties produce only intermediary fragrances or simply do not contain sufficient volatile oil to produce an essential oil or absolute at a commercially viable level.
One such related species is the so-called 'White Rose' (Rosa damascena var. alba), which produces a honey-sweet rose fragrance from its white blossoms. Unfortunately, its yield is so low that in Bulgaria it is no longer grown on a large scale, and apart from one remaining area it is only to be found marking borders or as hedges to protect the crops of pink damask roses. Known in the trade as the 'dry' rose, small quantities of oil are still extracted periodically and sold to high class perfumery houses and other specialists who are willing to pay its exorbitant price.
 
Genealogy
The particular variety of rose grown to produce rose otto in Bulgaria and Turkey is Rosa damascena forma trigintipetala, and its parentage has been the subject of great debate for many, many years. Recent advances in identifying plant genetics suggests it to be a hybrid of Rosa gallica and Rosa Phoenicia, and not Rosa gallica and Rosa canina as had been previously thought.
 
General description
R. damascena is a bushy deciduous shrub that grows up to 2 metres (6.5ft) high with multiple, arching stems armed with numerous thorns. The matt-textured, waxy green leaves are dark on the upper side, grey-green underneath, and were at one time used to produce a rose leaf absolute. The semi-double, highly fragrant blossoms are rosy-pink to rosy-red and usually grow in small clusters. Consisting of 30 to 35 petals (trigintipetala means thirty-petalled), these large delicate flowers emit an intoxicating fragrance that requires great skill to extract.
 
Folklore & traditional uses
There is surely no other flower so widely revered throughout the ancient world in literature, art and legend, as the rose. For adornment, protection and courage, the rose was used on the shields of Persian warriors, and rose petals were thrown under the chariot wheels of Roman heroes returning from battle. Roman brides and bridegrooms were crowned with roses, and it was said that Cleopatra procured Mark Anthony's love by adorning her bedroom floor and bed with rose petals. Likewise, the Empress Josephine was known for her obsession with roses, and her vast collection was recorded for posterity by the painter P.J. Redouté.
Since records began roses have been employed in medicine by the Arab, Assyrian, Chinese, Indian, Persian, Roman and Greek empires, using unguents and oils containing rose for disorders of the skin and circulatory system, and to reduce inflammation or pain in muscles and joints. Teas were taken internally to treat headaches, urinary infections, digestive and menstrual problems, and as a tonic for the heart. The beautiful feminine aroma and healing power of both oil and hydrosol were used extensively in cosmetics to improve the complexion, reduce thread veins and soften wrinkles.
It was possibly the Romans who introduced the rose to England where it was used enthusiastically by herbalists; Nicholas Culpeper used it extensively, and included it in a famous remedy for the plague.
 
Early Industry Development
The origin of the cultivated rose is thought to be the Gulf of Persia, now known as Iran, and from the 10th to the 17th century the rose industry was dominated by the Persians. Their great expertise eventually spread into Arabia, Mesopotamia, Palestine, Asia Minor (Anatolia) Greece, India, North Africa, and Spain. According to legend, in the 13th century R. damascena was brought from Damascus to Southern France by the returning Crusaders, although some experts believe it may have been R. gallica.
During the 16th century, Ottoman (Turkish) merchants imported R. damascena for cultivation throughout the Balkan countries, including a newly founded town in Bulgaria that would eventually become known as Kazanlik. Kazan is the Turkish word for "still", and Kazanlik literally means 'the place of stills'. A nearby valley provided the perfect environment for growing roses, thereby establishing what would in later years become the finest rose oil producing region in the world. This area is now called the 'Valley of the Roses', and during 1878 cuttings from the improved stock were returned to Anatolia and planted in Isparta and Burdur, where current rose production still thrives.
 
Other geographical sources
After Bulgaria and Turkey, other geographical areas that are known to produce rose otto include China, France, Morocco, and to a lesser extent, Saudi Arabia.
 
Harvesting & Extraction
In Bulgaria and Turkey the blossoms are still collected by hand in the time-honoured way, and are nipped just below the calyx. Collection begins at sunrise when the oil yield is at its highest, and should be completed by 10.00 a.m. whilst the dew is still on the flowers. The flowers are then quickly transported to the distillery before the precious oil evaporates.
Extraction is by water or steam distillation, and during the process a large amount of oil is absorbed into the distillation water. The rose oil must be recovered from this water to produce an acceptable yield, and this is achieved by skilfully re-distilling the water to separate the oil; a process known as cohobation. This recovered oil is then added to the original extraction, finally producing a pale yellow or yellow/green oil with a rich, deep sweet rose bouquet. Rose otto solidifies below 16º centigrade due to the presence of waxes, but holding the bottle in the hand for thirty seconds produces enough heat to dissolve the waxes and make it mobile again.
 
Principal Constituents
Citronellol, geraniol, stearopten, nerol, neral, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, trans-farnesol, trans-b-damascenone, cis-rose oxide.
 
Properties
Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, cicatrisant, depurative, emmenagogue, haemostatic, hepatic, laxative, relaxant, sedative, tonic to the heart, liver, stomach and uterus.
 
Indications
Acne, anger, anxiety, asthma, broken capillaries, depression, despair, diarrhoea, dry skin, dysmenorrhoea, endometriosis, frigidity, gastro-enteritis, grief, guilt, hay fever, impatience, insecurity, jealousy, leucorrhoea, menopause, nausea, nervous tension, PMS, shyness, stress, stretch marks, varicose veins, wrinkles.
This beautifully fragrant oil could be described as the definitive feminine oil since it is invaluable for all types of menstrual cycle problems. Rose tones the digestive and vascular system with a cleansing action promoting the elimination of toxins, and in skin care it is irreplaceable for mature, dry or sensitive skin. Also helps to strengthen the collagen/elastin network. Contraindications:- None known when used at normal levels.
 
© Geoff Lyth
Quinessence Tel: 01530 838358
 
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