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Botanical CO2 extracts (continued)…
 
With Skin Care expert Kolbjørn Borseth from Aromantic Natural Skin Care
 
This article continues our last article on using botanical CO2 extracts. In this article we examine the benefits of using Sea Buckthorn extracts.
 
Sea Buckthorn CO2 Extract
 
INCI name: Hippophae rhamnoides Kernel Extract [CO2], (and) Hippophae rhamnoides Pulp Extract [CO2]
 
Sea Buckthorn is a hardy bush often reaching 2-4 m in height in natural habitats, bearing delicious yellow-orange berries, referred to as "Siberian pineapple" in Russia, because of its taste and juiciness. Six species have been described, of which Hippophae rhamnoidesis is the major one. The natural habitat of Sea Buckthorn extends widely in the mountainous and coastal areas of China, Mongolia, Russia, most parts of Northern Europe, and South America. It is a unique and valuable plant currently cultivated in various parts of the world, including Canada. Tibetans started using Sea Buckthorn more than one thousand years ago, and it has been developed and used in hundreds of Asian traditional recipes through many generations for its nutritional and medicinal properties. Sea Buckthorn berries contain nutrients and vitamins in their seeds, pulp and juice. These nutrients include vitamins A, K, E, C, B1, B2, Folic Acid, Essential Fatty Acids, Lipids, Amino Acids, and Minerals. Studies conducted in the 20th century confirm numerous beneficial characteristics of Sea Buckthorn. The berries appear to be an unsurpassed natural source of vitamins A and several other carotenes, vitamin E and several other tocopherols, and flavonoids. Sea Buckthorn berries are second only to Rosehips and Acerola in vitamin C content. Sea Buckthorn products and materials mostly imported from China, range from oil, juice, tea, and food additives to candies, jellies, cosmetics, and shampoos. In Western Europe, Sea Buckthorn berries are well known for their juice products but they are also recognised as a unique source of rare and valuable lipids for cosmetic application. Lipids are diverse class compounds, including Fats, Oils, Fatty Acids, Triglycerides and Steroids essential for membrane formation, energy stores and fuel molecules. Sea Buckthorn is also mentioned in the writings of ancient Greek scholars such as Theophrastus and Dioscorides. Sea Buckthorn was known as a remedy for horses, and leaves and young branches were added to fodder, to induce rapid weight gain and a shiny coat, and in fact, the generic name Hippophae means 'shining horse'. There are two sources of Oil in Sea Buckthorn berries: the seed which contains 10%-15% oil and the pulpy fruit parts surrounding the seed, which contains 29%-48% oil. The Seed Oils are highly unsaturated with up to 73% or more of the fatty acids making up the oil being Linoleic or Linolenic. The difference between Seed and Pulp Oil seems to lie in the relatively high content (14%-50%) of Saturated Palmitic Fatty Acids and 38% of the Fatty Acids being Palmitoleic Acid in the Pulp Oil and the relatively high proportion of Polyunsaturated Linoleic and Linolenic Fatty Acids (up to 73% or more) in the Seed Oil.
 
For cosmetic application, it is essential to only use true and genuine oils, which are totally composed of Sea Buckthorn Lipids, and not the Sea Buckthorn Macerated Oils, which are also on the market. Since cold pressing of Sea Buckthorn Lipids is difficult or impossible due to the low oil content, the oil must be separated by extraction procedures, supercritical CO2 fluid extraction being the method of choice for pure and high-grade oils.
 
The high concentration of Palmitoleic Fatty Acid in the Pulp Oil:
 
1. is rarely found in the plant kingdom
2. is a natural component of human skin and plays an important role in the cellular regeneration of skin
3. provides an elegant skin feeling
4. makes it more stable than the Seed Oil
5. provides the most potent commercially available source of lipids besides Macadamia Nut Oil.
 
The high concentration of Polyunsaturated Linoleic and Linolenic Fatty Acids in the Seed Oil:
1. is well known for their physiological activity in internal as well as external topical application
2. is recognised for eczema treatment and can replace or supplement cortisone preparations in less severe cases.
 
Both the Seed and Pulp Oils are rich in:
 
Tocopherols their antioxidant efficacy reduces UV-induced skin damages when topically applied. The formation of UV-induced toxic peroxides on skin tissue is strongly suppressed by the Tocopherols. They protect the skin membrane, reduce inflammation and accelerate wound healing.
Tocotrienols along with Tocopherol, make up Vitamin E. Studies have shown the antioxidant effects of Tocotrienols to be 40 to 60 times more effective than alpha-Tocopherol. Tocotrienols have also been shown to reduce the risk of stroke by reversing atherosclerosis, and to reduce the level of LDL ("bad") cholesterol. Tocotrienols and Tocopherols are similar in chemical structure, but Tocotrienols are more unsaturated, which means they are more mobile and more reactive, while Tocopherols tend to cluster.
Phytosterols Considered 'one of nature's miracles', they are not only essential components of the skin responsible for structure formation, but they are also precursors of hormones with a number of positive effects on the skin. They improve the membrane stability of the skin, support the natural skin physiology and prevent dehydration. They also stimulate collagen synthesis, enabling skin to look younger and helping to protect the skin against harmful environmental stress. And are: new interesting ingredients for skincare cosmetics. They can be applied individually e.g. putting Pulp Oil in Before and After Sun cosmetics or combined together in high-grade cosmetic products. However, the Pulp Oil is of greater interest because of the high content of Palmitoleic Acid, Tocopherols, Carotenoids and Sterols.
 
Sea Buckthorn has been shown to have a wide range of beneficial health effects, namely:
1. Anti-inflammatory effects
2. Pain and stress relieving effect
3. Healing sunburn and wounds quickly by supporting the epithelisation and regeneration of skin tissue
4. Using it in Sun Care products as the Oil seems to both enhance tanning and absorb UV rays-Russian cosmonauts even use it for protection against radiation burns in space!
5. Rejuvenating and restoring skin that has been affected by healed burns and pigmentation spots
6. Healing acute and chronic phlegmonic acne when applied in 5% ointment bindings supplemented by a daily intake of the oil
7. Healing eczema
8. Balancing dry, matured, wrinkled skin to help restore elasticity and firmness
9. Regenerating and healing damaged skin - whether the skin is injured, ill or simply particularly sensitive
10. Protecting and caring for healthy skin
11. Treating mucous-membrane-related disorders and diseases such as cough, sputum, gastric and gynaecological problems
12. Promoting regeneration of skin and mucous membranes
13. Improving immune functions
14. Reducing oxidation (scavenging free radicals)
15. Strengthening cardiovascular health
16. Taken internally, it is an ideal remedy for healing and regenerating of weakened mucous membranes e.g. in oral cavity, respiratory tracts, gullet and digestive tract, including gastric ulcers
 
Neither the Pulp nor Seed Extract contain:
1. solvent residues
2. inorganic salts
3. heavy metals
4. reproducible micro-organisms
 
Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract, which is extracted from the pulp of the Sea Buckthorn berries, is a clear to turbid red colour and 1kg of the Pulp Extract is equivalent to 8 - 14kg of the raw material.
 
Sea Buckthorn Seed CO2 Extract, which is extracted from the seeds of the Sea Buckthorn berries, is an orange-yellow clear colour and 1kg of the Seed Extract is equivalent to 13 - 20kg of the raw material.
 
This information is extracted from Aromantic Education Pack 2 - An A-Z of raw materials for making your own skincare products. See the website for more information.
 
Aromantic Natural Skin Care
Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900
Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911
e-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk
 
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